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October 13 - October 17, 2014

What is the best way to ensure successful application of an acid stain to an existing horizontal concrete surface?


Selected Answers

From Dave Gonzales of Decorative Crete-Worx on October 16, 2014:
I always make sure that as I am spraying the materials from a pump-up sprayer, I have enough guys coming directly behind me within 3 to 5 seconds blotting/sponging any stain that appears to be running down. Even a nice-sized beach towel works well, but once it's full of stain, replace it. And I prefer to purchase my sealer in 100 % solids, solvent-based form and mix it 2 to 1 with lacquer thinner because it doesn't matter what the manufacturer writes on the can. When it comes to the amounts of acrylic, they are out to make  money and may not be totally honest, and you might be buying a can of thinner with very little sticky in it because pre-made sealer has the same viscosity as water, practically, and how it holds up completely matters.  Once your sealer coat is gone, your color is coming off right behind it.

From john bares of its really concrete, inc. on October 14, 2014:
Use a solo sprayer.

From web stokes of DMA on October 13, 2014:
Use proper prep to assure adequate porosity and a clean surface that is free from sealers, adhesives, mastics, curing compounds and anything else that will inhibit a reaction of the stain with the concrete. On a side note, cheap sealers are just that. If you want the floor to hold up over time, then take the time and spend a little extra to ensure you have a quality finish, such as is achieved with polyurethane.

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Tagged categories: Acid stains; Asia Pacific; EMEA (Europe, Middle East and Africa); Good Technical Practice; Latin America; North America; Paint application


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