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November 15 - November 21, 2010

How do you repair delaminated areas of an elastomeric polyurea when the majority of the coating system is intact?


Selected Answers

From Tom Seabloom of 21st Century Coatings on November 22, 2010:
Tapering and feathering seem dangerous. In the repairs that I have done, I like full thickness of the intended system on the material left as well as the repair. It definitely has a tire patch look but having the material at the full thickness, I would think, improves the performance properties of the material, perm, for instances.

From Jeff Downing of Versaflex Inc. on November 17, 2010:
Not to dispute Mr. Rennert's answer, but a much more aggressive profile is required---36 grit at least. Wipe down with a product (not just solvent), DZOLV or similiar chemistry, to acheive the desired tack to the coating. Lacking this, you will not acheive an adequate bond line and will incur delamination when the coating is

From Rudi Rennert of Rhino Linings Corporation on November 16, 2010:
First and foremost, identify the cause for the delamination. Any contaminants left unchecked will only cause repeat faulure. Any loose material should be removed and remaining surrounding material should be well adhered. Sand and taper (using a 80-120 grit DA or similar) the edges of the elastomeric polyurea to provide a smooth transistion from remaining existing coating to the area where the coating was removed. No hard edges should remain. Any areas receiving new coating should be cleaned thoroughly using a solvent such as acetone. Finally, the area for repair should be primed using an approved adhesion promoter. Spray application should begin at the center of the repair, building the appropriate thickness and then tapering the new thicknes down to the surrounding areas where the original coating remains.

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Tagged categories: Elastomeric coatings; Polyurea


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